Transvestia

across the room.

From my experience, it occurs to me to say that if women would spend less time in blindly following the arbitrary commands of "fashion" and give more attention to finding out the most attractive means of draping their figures the results would be more satisfactory to both the wearer and the beholder. My advice to women on the sub- ject of an artistic toilette is to go to the art galleries and study the arrangement of draperies in statues and painting done by the hands of the masters. They might also profit from the poise of the figures, for I will wager that not one will be found either standing like a soldier or lounging in an ungraceful position.

Another step which was difficult to master, and which to the artist, at least, is never mastered completely, was the contrast of color and tints. A woman may have a gown of the most costly texture, Woven on the finest looms, and yet when worn the effect will be disappointing if there is not enough contrast to bring out the beauty of the materials. I would not attempt to lay down a set of rules on this point. There are no such things as rules for cor- rect dressing. The wearer must depend upon her taste, and if that taste be bad it is well to leave the matter to the judgement of an efficient modiste and hope for the best.

All this is in answer to the question of how much I know about my gowns. Now as to the designing:

When in vaudeville, and in my appointed time playing many parts, characterizations of various types of women, from the haughty, bepowdered and beplumed dame of Colonial days to the demure damsel of the '60's and the self-sufficient girl of to-day, every detail of my costuming had to be worked out by me alone. Now, in dressing one role throughout an entire play this is no less necessary. I cannot go to a modiste, order "just a simple gown:, ΟΙ "an elaborate one for evening wear, and leave the se- lection of material and design to her. Rather, I have to give personal supervision to everything to every stitch.

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I almost said

First I have to bring myself to the mental attitude of the "woman" whom I am to present. What are her needs?

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